Introduction
When people hear the word kimono, they may first imagine colorful furisode, elegant homongi, or other styles traditionally worn by women.
But men have their own forms of kimono, too.
If you’re new to Japanese clothing, you may wonder:
Do men always wear hakama with kimono?
What is a haori?
Is a men’s obi different from a women’s obi?
What do Japanese men wear for formal occasions?
Men’s kimono may seem complicated at first, but the basic structure is surprisingly easy to understand.
In this guide, we’ll explore the essentials of traditional men’s kimono, from the kimono itself to obi, haori, and hakama.
What You’ll Learn
- The basics of men’s kimono
- What a kaku obi is
- What a haori is
- When hakama are worn
- The difference between casual and formal men’s kimono
- Some key differences between men’s and women’s kimono
The Basics of Men’s Kimono
The foundation of a traditional men’s outfit is the kimono itself, also called a nagagi (長着).
An obi is tied around the waist to hold the kimono in place.
At its simplest, the outfit can be:
Kimono + Obi
Depending on the occasion and style, other garments can be added:
Kimono + Obi + Haori
or
Kimono + Obi + Haori + Hakama
This means one important thing:
Men do not always wear hakama with kimono.
A kimono with an obi alone can be a complete outfit.
What Is a Kaku Obi?
One of the most common obi worn by men is the kaku obi (角帯).
It is much narrower than many obi worn by women and is tied around the waist or hips.
There are several ways to tie a kaku obi, including a traditional style called kai-no-kuchi (貝の口).
Although men’s obi may appear understated, their color, pattern, and texture can significantly change the overall impression of an outfit.
What Is a Haori?
A haori (羽織) is a jacket-like garment worn over a kimono.
It can add another layer of style and formality to the outfit.
Haori come in different fabrics and designs, and their use can vary depending on the occasion.
Formal men’s haori may also feature kamon, or family crests.
Although a haori can loosely be compared with a jacket for someone unfamiliar with Japanese clothing, it is a distinct traditional Japanese garment with its own construction and conventions.
What Is Hakama?
Hakama (袴) are garments worn over the lower part of a kimono and tied at the waist.
For many people outside Japan, hakama are one of the most recognizable parts of traditional men’s clothing.
However, they are not required every time a man wears kimono.
Hakama may be seen at formal ceremonies, weddings, coming-of-age celebrations, graduations, and in certain traditional arts.
Different types of hakama exist, and striped hakama are particularly associated with some forms of men’s formal dress.
Casual and Formal Men’s Kimono
Just like Western clothing ranges from casual clothes to formal suits, men’s kimono also vary according to the occasion.
For casual outings, men may wear kimono made from materials such as tsumugi or cotton with a kaku obi, sometimes adding a haori.
Formal occasions require a different level of dress.
One of the best-known forms of men’s formal Japanese attire is montsuki haori hakama (紋付羽織袴), which combines crested garments with hakama.
The appropriate outfit depends on the occasion and the level of formality required.
How Are Men’s and Women’s Kimono Different?
Men’s and women’s kimono may look similar at first, but there are several differences in their construction and styling.
One of the easiest differences for beginners to notice is the ohashori (おはしょり).
Women commonly adjust the length of a kimono by folding excess fabric around the waist, creating the visible fold called ohashori.
Men’s kimono are generally tailored and worn at approximately the wearer’s full length, known as tsuitake (対丈), so the same type of ohashori is normally not created.
There are also differences in sleeve construction, obi width, obi position, and overall styling.
So while both are called kimono, men’s and women’s outfits create their silhouettes in different ways.
What About Men’s Yukata?
Men also wear yukata.
Yukata are casual summer garments commonly seen at summer festivals, fireworks displays, hot-spring towns, and other relaxed occasions.
Men often wear them with a kaku obi or another suitable casual obi.
For someone interested in Japanese clothing but unsure where to begin, a yukata can be an approachable introduction to traditional Japanese dress.
Are Men’s Kimono Always Dark and Simple?
Men’s kimono are often associated with understated colors such as:
- Black
- Navy
- Gray
- Brown
But men’s kimono do not have to be plain or dark.
Today, there are many choices in color, pattern, fabric, haori, obi, and accessories.
Because the overall silhouette can be relatively simple, subtle differences in weave, texture, color combinations, and accessories can become an important part of personal style.
Men’s Kimono Is More Than Hakama
One common misconception is that traditional Japanese clothing for men always includes hakama.
In reality, men’s kimono culture is much broader.
A man might wear a kimono and obi for a casual outing, add a haori for another style of dress, or wear hakama when appropriate for a particular occasion.
Understanding these individual pieces makes traditional Japanese men’s clothing much easier to appreciate.
Conclusion
The basics of men’s kimono can be summarized simply:
- Kimono forms the foundation of the outfit
- Kaku obi is a common type of men’s obi
- Haori is worn over the kimono
- Hakama are not required for every kimono outfit
- Men’s kimono range from casual to formal
- Men’s and women’s kimono differ in construction and styling
You don’t need to memorize every rule to begin appreciating men’s kimono.
Start by recognizing the four main elements:
Kimono. Obi. Haori. Hakama.
Once you understand what each one does, the world of traditional Japanese men’s clothing becomes much easier—and much more interesting—to explore.
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